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by Iris George
In case you haven’t heard, the perm has returned! That’s right. While the ‘80s are long gone, one of the era’s most iconic hairstyles is back in a big way – gracing red carpets, catwalks and regular babes about town. This comes as no surprise with perms being an easy way to change up your look. Depending on the type of perm you choose, you’ll be able to get voluminous bouncy curls or even silky smooth straight hair!
But, like any chemical process, it does have an impact on your strands, especially when done wrongly or without the right aftercare. Before committing to the popular hair trend, it’s best you wrap your head around exactly what a perm is and what it means for your mane. So, to help you out here’s everything you need to know about the springy style’s second wave.
In case you weren’t around in the ‘80s, here’s a quick lesson on the style du jour. Perm is a shorthand way of referring to a permanent wave or “permanent.” And perming involves a chemical process that changes the structure of your hair to achieve a different texture.
What does all this mean? That you can change your hair from the straightest of straight to curly or wavy – and the results won’t wash out! This process takes two to three hours and should be done by a professional. And while the word “permanent” is a bit of a misnomer, the results will last literal months longer than your GHD efforts.
First originating in the 1800s, the perm became a popular 80s beauty trend that breaks and resets the hair bonds into permanent curls and spirals. Back then, the restructuring process was pretty uniform, a perm is no longer a one-size-fits-all process. Today, stylists can customize their own techniques and have more options. Different styles can be created with different approaches, with the placement of the rod determining the shape and movement of the curl.
There are two main methods used to perm hair. Most perm styles are achieved through cold perms. This is when your hair is wrapped in rods to achieve the desired curl pattern and perm lotion is applied. For hot perms, the process is similar but with the addition of heat to activate the lotion.
But whichever method you choose and despite modern perms being less damaging, perms remain a chemical process that require proper aftercare, more of which we cover below!
When learning what a perm is, it’s important to know the difference between cold and hot perms, as each method delivers distinct results and suits different hair types.
Cold perms (alkaline perms) use a chemical solution without heat, creating tight, defined curls. They’re ideal for thicker or coarser hair, but can be slightly more damaging due to the stronger formula.
Hot perms, or digital perms, use heat along with a chemical solution to form soft, natural-looking waves. They work best on finer or delicate hair and tend to be gentler, though results may not last as long.
Choosing the right type depends on your hair’s texture, health, and the style you want to achieve.
Although perm implies permanent, when your natural hair grows in at the roots the perm is pushed downward. Depending on the length of your hair, new growth, and your routine, perms often last between three to six months.
Typically, hair grows at a rate of half an inch per month. The new growth will obviously be in your old texture, necessitating a touch-up at the salon.
If your hair is fine and flat, a perm can give your hair the volume you’ve dreamed of, from tightly wound curls to beachy waves. No longer resulting in a one-size-fits-all poodle perm, there are loads of different options to choose from – so which one is for you?
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Like colouring and heat styling, perms can damage your hair. Sorry. While new formulas are less damaging, the powerful chemical is still changing the composition of your strands. No matter which you choose, hot or cold perms, the disulphide bonds will be broken apart and the protein structure of the hair altered. This means you should weigh up the pros and cons of a new do before going through with a perm.
But there is some good news. The same bond-building products you use to repair the hair bonds broken during bleaching can help reverse damage and protect hair against breakage. We’ll discuss this more when we get to aftercare.
Before deciding if a perm is right for you, it’s important to understand what a perm does to your hair type. While perms can work on a variety of hair textures, they deliver the best results on healthy, unprocessed hair—especially hair that hasn’t been bleached, overly colored, or chemically treated.
Virgin hair tends to handle the perming process better, retaining curl shape and strength over time. If your hair is already fragile, damaged, or chemically altered, the perming solution may cause further dryness, breakage, or uneven texture.
For the safest and most effective outcome, it’s best to consult a stylist who can assess your hair’s condition and recommend whether a perm is the right move—or if prep and recovery treatments are needed first.
Who should get a perm? And who shouldn’t? As a rule, the process is not recommended if your hair is bleached, highlighted, or already chemically altered. Although perming coloured hair isn’t dangerous, it exposes the hair to multiple chemical processes – and the more chemicals, the more damage. Already compromised hair is more fragile, which potentially causes breakage, split ends, frizzy hair, and colour fade.
Perms generally work on all hair types, but the ideal hair would be virgin hair that’s never been coloured before.
While the style itself isn't permanent, the impact of the chemical process on your strands is. A perm cannot be undone, so keeping your hair in good condition is essential. After your hair appointment, avoid washing or wetting the hair for at least 48 hours.
Once your hair is ready for some TLC, the right products will be your BFF. Remember those disulphide bonds that get broken? Your chemically treated hair will be drier and more vulnerable to damage, and a bond rebuilder should be a regular part of your routine. With 3D bond building technology, our Bond Building Pre-Shampoo Treatment repairs and restructures weakened hair for an 85% reduction in breakage.
For the altered protein structure, use a keratin repairing hair mask to help strengthen and smooth your frazzled strands! Leave the mask on for five minutes, or use our protective microfibre towel wrap to let it soak in overnight and wash out the following day. You can get both these repair power-houses at a discount with our Hair Repair Bundle!
After rinsing out the product, gently detangle your hair with a tangle tamer. Air dry or use the microfibre towel wrap to keep frizz at bay.
Is your tousled ‘do extra dry? Hydrating products Like a Virgin Hair Mask are also a must to restore moisture and shine and maintain your perm's integrity.
Once you’re tired of your new ‘do you have two options. Grow it out or cut it off.
While you can straighten permed hair, heat styling is best avoided – especially in the first two weeks. But if you do decide to switch up from those effortless curls, make sure you coat your hair thoroughly in a heat protectant!
If you want to switch up your style with a perm and can’t be bothered curling your hair every second day, consider a hair perm. The style has evolved since the ‘80s to look much more natural and there’s a curl to suit every taste and face shape. However, know that you’ll need to invest in more TLC, including hydrating and frizz-fighting hair care products – and possibly a bond builder too!
A perm typically lasts between three to six months, depending on your hair type, how fast your hair grows, and how well you care for your hair after the treatment. Regular trims, moisturizing products, and gentle handling can help extend the life of your perm.
While modern perms are less harsh than older formulas, they still involve chemicals that alter your hair’s structure. This can cause dryness, frizz, or breakage, especially if your hair is already damaged. Proper aftercare and bond-repair treatments can help minimize the impact.
Perm prices vary by location, salon, and hair length. On average, expect to pay:
$30–$150 for short hair
$60–$200 for medium-length hair
$80–$400 for long hair
Investing in a reputable stylist often leads to better, longer-lasting results.
Not always! While most perms are designed to give straight hair curls or waves, straight perms (also called reverse or Japanese perms) are used to straighten curly hair. So yes, perms can be curly or straight, depending on your goals.
A perm, short for "permanent wave," is a chemical process that restructures your hair to create curls or waves that don’t wash out. A stylist wraps your hair around rods, applies a perm solution to break the hair’s bonds, and then uses a neutralizer to reset the new shape.
For more hair-spiration, check out our blog!
Edited by: Pip Jarvis and Iris
